June in review: Global action against PFAS, EU Nature Restoration Law approval and legal challenges for J&J

02 Jul 2024 --- June saw countries worldwide take action against PFAS chemicals. The French senate approved a proposed ban on cosmetics; the Danish Parliament allocated DKK404 million (US$59 million) for a national action plan to prevent, contain and clean up its PFAS contamination, while the US state of Colorado promised to prohibit the sale and distribution of products containing the “forever chemicals” by January 2026.

After months of deadlock, Austria helped the EU adopt the landmark Nature Restoration Law, which aims to restore at least 20% of land and sea by 2030 and ecosystems by 2050.

Innovations were vital, with Vytrus Biotech launching three skin and hair care solutions using plant exosomes rich in Exosomic Peptides. At the Cosmetic Business trade show in Munich, Germany, Personal Care Insights caught up with scores of companies, including Cosphatec, which discussed how its antioxidant blend containing carnosic acid from rosemary could preserve skin care formulations.

In business news, Groupe Rocher engaged in exclusive talks with Arcade Beauty to sell its Ploërmel factory while ensuring job preservation; L'Occitane reported mixed full-year results amid a renewed push to privatize and Johnson & Johnson faced another potential class action with claimants demanding damages and medical monitoring for women diagnosed with cancer or who may get the disease in the future. That came just one week after the pharma giant said it would pay US$700 million to settle an investigation brought forth by multiple US states.

Learn more about the significant stories in June that made headlines in the personal care and beauty sector.

June
Estée Lauder Companies seizes remaining stake in The Ordinary parent company Deciem for US$860M
The Estée Lauder Companies (ELC) purchased the remaining interests in Canadian multi-brand company Deciem Beauty Group for US$860 million after making its first investment in 2017. Deciem houses beauty labels including The Ordinary, Hylamide and NIOD (Non-Invasive Options in Dermal Science). ELC’s total investment, net of cash, is approximately US$1.7 billion.

France and Denmark race to ban PFAS for combating health risk over EU lag
The French Senate approved a PFAS ban proposal in cosmetics, coinciding with the Danish Parliament’s allocation of DKK404 million (US$59 million) for a national action plan to prevent, contain and clean up its PFAS contamination. France’s proposed ban applies to kitchen utensils, ski wax and clothing beginning in 2026, with a general prohibition of all other textiles by 2030. PFAS are found in band-aids, toilet paper, period products and cosmetics.France’s proposed ban applies to kitchen utensils, ski wax and clothing beginning in 2026, with a general prohibition of all other textiles by 2030.

Cosmetic Business 2024 live: Cosphatec champions rosemary-sourced antioxidant for skin care preservation
Personal Care Insights was live at the Cosmetic Business trade show in Munich, Germany, to learn about exciting personal care and beauty innovations. We caught up with Cosphatec to learn about its latest ingredient, Cosphaderm Tocopharin. The antioxidant blend, containing carnosic acid from rosemary, was touted as a “two-in-one solution for your formulation without changing the color or the smell of the formulation in the end.”

Groupe Rocher seeks employee job preservation in perfume production site sale to Arcade Beauty
Groupe Rocher entered exclusive talks with Arcade Beauty to sell its Ploërmel factory. Arcade Beauty produces sampling and packaging solutions in the perfumery and cosmetics industry. It said the site’s “industrial capacity and know-how is exactly what we were looking for to expand our product offering and pursue our commercial development.” Arcade promised to work with Groupe Rocher to preserve production and jobs.

EU cracks down on cosmetic greenwashing with new rules in Green Claims Directive
The EU Council’s latest adoption of its position on the Green Claims Directive targeted cosmetic companies’ environmental claims when marketing the greenness of their products, including environmental impacts, carbon claims, performance or trade. It stated companies must substantiate environmental claims with scientific evidence and clear specifications and get third-party verifications unless exempted. Public and private labeling schemes must also comply, while carbon offset claims must detail carbon credits and show net-zero progress.

Austria moves past months of deadlock to help EU rubberstamp approval of landmark Nature Restoration Law
After months of deadlock, the EU adopted the landmark Nature Restoration Law, which aims to restore at least 20% of land and sea by 2030 and ecosystems by 2050. The measure was finally passed thanks to a change of heart by Austria, which had previously said it would not support the policy. Opposing countries, such as the Netherlands, believe they are not in a position to meet nitrogen-based pollution and water quality standards and say the new policy targets will be more challenging to achieve.L’Occitane reports mixed earnings results amid renewed bid to privatize (Image credit: L’Occitane en Provence).

Johnson & Johnson faces new lawsuit demanding medical monitoring for talc-related cancer claims
Just one week after agreeing to pay US$700 million to settle an investigation brought forth by multiple US states, Johnson & Johnson (J&J) faced another potential class action — this time, with claimants demanding damages and medical monitoring for women diagnosed with cancer or who may get the disease in the future. The claimants alleged the disease resulted from using J&J’s baby powder and other talc products. The proposed class action would be the first request for testing of female talc users in the US.

Vytrus Biotech unveils turmeric and gotu kola stem-cell-based “Exosomic Peptides” for skin, hair and well-being
Vytrus Biotech launched three skin and hair care innovations using plant exosomes rich in Exosomic Peptides. The company said it is the first to discover this cosmetic ingredient, which it claims provides notable anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and anti-wrinkle benefits. Exosomes, also known as ectosomes or small extracellular vesicles, are naturally secreted by cells and surrounded by a lipid membrane containing DNA, RNA, proteins and other bioactive compounds.

L’Occitane reports mixed results for 2024 amid renewed push to privatize
L’Occitane reported a 19.1% year-over-year jump in FY2024 net sales to €25.4 billion (US$27.2 billion). The company highlighted remarkable growth with its popular Gen Z brand, Sol de Janeiro, which grew by 167%, while its flagship L’Occitane en Provence posted a “steady performance.” However, net income and operating profit dropped partly due to increased marketing investments. The mixed results come at a time when L’Occitane is still courting minority shareholders in a bid to privatize the company.

PFAS phaseout: Colorado banning forever chemical-based cleaning, floss and menstrual products by 2026
The US state of Colorado banned PFAS to protect human and environmental health from “forever chemicals.” By January 2026, Colorado will prohibit the sale and distribution of cleaning products (including air care), cookware, dental floss, menstruation products and ski wax containing PFAS chemicals. Additionally, installing artificial turf containing PFAS chemicals will be prohibited.

By Anita Sharma

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