Antioxidant armors: Anti-inflammatory enzyme, yellow herb and red seaweed fights skin damage

08 Sep 2023 --- Antioxidants are an essential part of skin health that aid in reducing inflammation and damage caused by aging or photodamage while promoting collagen production and UV protection. Personal Care Insights brings together the latest research on antioxidants, sharing findings on the enzymes superoxide dismutase, yellow herb Gentiana lutea and red seaweed Gelidium corneum.

“Superoxide dismutase is a class of enzymes that restrict the body’s biological oxidant cluster enzyme system, which can effectively respond to cellular oxidative stress, lipid metabolism, inflammation and oxidation,” explains a recent review published in Antioxidants.

While outlining superoxide dismutase’s medical and food applications, the review authors also reveal their applications in cosmetics for skin protection.

Superoxide dismutase prevents skin aging and prevents and treats skin diseases that cause redness and swelling.Superoxide dismutase targets oxidative damage by scavenging free radicals and combating aging while also being effective against cancer or diseases caused by oxidative stress. They flag that when the skin is in contact with oxygen, it will cause aging and damage. However, the enzymes’ function has “obvious” sunscreen and radiation protection.

Simultaneously, superoxide dismutase is also anti-inflammatory while having no toxic side effects known to date. Thus, the authors deem it a safe cosmetic.

Reviewing skin care applications
In their review of certain studies, the authors highlight that extracellular superoxide dismutase downregulated contact hypersensitivity, showing potential treatment for inflammatory skin diseases.

Overall, superoxide dismutase is used as a cosmetic additive to prevent skin aging and make it soft and smooth or to prevent and treat skin diseases that cause redness and swelling. In chemical applications in China, it has been added to the production process of Meijiajing toothpaste. 

In one study featured in the analysis, SOD labeled with iodine showed it was well absorbed into mice’s skin. In male mice, superoxide dismutase and cell-penetrating peptide significantly reduce UVB-induced skin damage.

Another study developed a hydration method by preparing superoxide dismutase-loaded niosomes and delivered to the hair follicles of guinea pig skin.

Redness reduction and fighting dark circleGentiana lutea extract had skin rejuvenating results as it decreased redness. 
In a separate study, Greentech et al. investigated the effect of bioactive molecule gentiopicroside on the skin around the eyes. The researchers evaluated an extract of Gentiana lutea, which contained 65% gentiopicroside by dry matter, in in vitro and ex vivo studies.

They found that the Gentiana lutea extract had a skin rejuvenating result as it decreased redness.

In vitro testing resulted in a “significant positive effect” on the release of the protein VEGF-C, “an important mediator of lymphangiogenesis,” a process of lymphatic growth from pre-existing vessels. Gentiana lutea extract was found to act on the pathway of AGEs, VEGF-A and VEFG-C.

“Lymphatic vessels are heavily involved in regulating the inflammatory response by draining extravasated fluid, antigens, and it is well known that activation of lymphatic vessels induced by VEGF-C reduces oedema formation in acute skin inflammation,” detail the authors. 

“The results also suggest that Gentiana lutea extract would have a protective effect against excessive or dysregulated blood vessel formation and would ultimately protect against dark circles formation under the eyes.

Dermocosmetic formulation potential
(Image credit: Red seaweed study).In new insights into the dermocosmetic potential of the red seaweed Gelidium corneum, the researchers found that incorporating 1% of its extract into a cosmetic formulation improved its antioxidant capacity in vivo tests. It can prevent oxidative stress that can impact the health of the skin.

Moreover, the extract had a healing capacity with a “great sensorial aspect,” being caramel in color and without a smell, while having the ability to be dispersed in a high water content formulation.

They also found no adverse effects in human volunteers, showing red seaweed extract’s potential in dermatological applications. 

“However, more in-depth studies are needed concerning the long-term effects and mechanisms of action against UV damage promoted by ingredients extracted from Gelidium corneum collected off the Portuguese shore.

Spotlight on skin-protecting antioxidants
In related research into natural sourced antioxidant solutions, researchers in Thailand have found that bamboo mushroom (Phallus indusiatus) extracts can decrease melanin content caused by cellular tyrosinase activity while also possessing antioxidant activity.

Other antioxidant-based research looked at caffeine and mangosteen peel formulations for shampoos. A further study found hibiscus leaf extract as a promising natural skin care ingredient with antioxidant activity.

Oriflame Cosmetics discovered citrus fruit-based flavanone naringenin, known for its antioxidant effects, shields the skin from UVB exposure and pollution. Moreover, bio-based pigments can be a natural source of antioxidants while providing pigment and improved rheology.

Additionally, Euromed recently unveiled Pomanox, a pomegranate extract, as “nature’s strongest antioxidant.”

By Venya Patel