Biomimetic ceramides: Syensqo harnesses fermentation to make natural skin barrier booster

12 Jun 2024 --- Syensqo launches Cerafy, a line of biomimetic natural ceramides for skin and hair care products.

The chemicals company says this latest launch is a result of its April acquisition of JinYoung Bio, a South Korean supplier that makes ceramides using biotechnological fermentation processes.

“Our Cerafy range is nature-inspired, we are developing ceramides that mimic the natural ceramide that our skin produces. With our solution, we can supplement the skin with key lipids that have the tendency to decrease with time or due to aggression,” Syensqo’s spokesperson tells Personal Care Insights.

It presents Cerafy to expand its Beauty Care business, focusing on natural and specialty skin care solutions.

Innova Market Insights data indicates a surge of personal care launches that mention skin barrier, with a 27% growth from October 2018 to September 2023. Seventy-two percent of these launches were in the Skin Care category. Additionally, with the alignment with the skinification trend, there has been a steep increase in skin barrier health claims for hair care, with a 47% growth in the past five years.

Manufacturing process
The company says Cerafy Pure NPo (normal fatty acid and phytosphingosine base) is produced through a fermentation.

“Syensqo employs an innovative manufacturing process to design the Cerafy range of products. It begins with the ceramide precursor (phytosphingosine) extraction through yeast fermentation, followed by acylation with fatty acid,” says the spokesperson.

“This method ensures that the Cerafy solutions are identical to their naturally occurring counterparts, present in the stratum corneum, which, in turn, offers great bioaffinity and strong efficacy.”

It sees exposure to environmental aggressors decreasing the skin’s natural ceramide NP levels, thus compromising the skin barrier.

Watch our Video Interview with Syensqo about carbon capture and bio alternatives for silicone and sulfate.

First in line
Pure ceramide III solution Cerafy Pure NPo is the first product in this line. “Developed to address the decrease in natural ceramide levels within the skin, Cerafy Pure NPo helps restore and reinforce the skin barrier by supplementing the skin with those key lipids,” shares the spokesperson.

“Cerafy Pure NPo enables the replenishment of the gaps between the cells, allowing for the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the skin, to have a uniform structure and create a stronger barrier.”

“Thanks to the reinforced skin barrier, moisture loss is avoided and the skin barrier is protected from external and harmful elements resulting in healthy, radiant skin.”

The company suggests its applications extend to scalp and hair care, cleansing and color cosmetic products.

“Ceramides are essential for maintaining skin integrity, acting as a protective barrier to lock in moisture and shield against environmental damage,” says Léa Seidenbinder, Global Skin Care marketing manager at Syensqo.

“With Cerafy, we enable formulators to create responsible and personalized skin care routines that restore, protect and maintain skin health.”

Biotech solutions rising
The fermentation process used to create Cerafy aligns with Syensqo’s Growth Platform for Biotechnology and Renewable Materials. “The platform leverages biotechnologies as an enabler to develop renewable carbon-based and safe chemistry to accelerate the transformation toward sustainable and circular solutions,” adds the spokesperson.

Personal Care Insights previously spoke to Eric Leroy, global marketing director of Beauty Care at Syensqo, at In-cosmetics Global in Paris, France. He discussed silicone and taurate replacements and green beauty innovations.

In a Special Report, we explored the latest innovation in skin barrier enhancements. CP Kelco addressed skin pH balance, Lucas Meyer Cosmetics introduced a biomimetic peptide, Cargill Beauty unveiled nature-based emollients and TriNutra showcased a black seed oil solution, offering insights into enhancing skin health and resilience.

By Venya Patel

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