Givaudan debuts skincare’s “first sustainable alternative to synthetic retinol”

06 Feb 2023 --- Givaudan has unveiled RetiLife, a 100% natural-origin retinol crafted through biotechnology. The product is marketed as a sustainable alternative to chemically synthesized retinol RetiLife with similar anti-wrinkle efficacy.

Branded RetiLife, the molecule sports an anti-aging claim and marks a “breakthrough evolution” for the cosmetic industry, according to its manufacturer.

“After years of research and development, we are thrilled to offer the most innovative and sustainable retinol on the cosmetic market and therefore open the door to new cosmetic applications,” comments Romain Reynaud, R&D director of Givaudan Active Beauty.

Reynaud highlights that the launch responds primarily to the robust consumer demand for cleaner beauty products.

Concentrated naturality
Conventional retinol has been flagged for its drawbacks. Notably, it has been challenging to formulate due to its instability. The active molecule retinoic acid is not allowed in cosmetics.

Through the use of microorganisms, Givaudan’s pure retinol is produced in a natural carrier during a fermentation process from plant sugars and combined with natural antioxidants to ensure its protection, even at a very high concentration.

With 100% natural-origin content, including sunflower oil as a carrier, the composition of RetiLife avoids synthetic ingredients such as BHT/BHA or polysorbate.

The molecule is “identical” to its chemical counterpart, Givaudan highlights.

RetiLife will be introduced during in-cosmetics Global taking place in Barcelona, Spain, from March 28 to 30, which PersonalCareInsights will be reporting live from.

Advancements in retinol
Retinol is widely used in skincare applications for its well-known efficient anti-wrinkles properties.

Clariant recently introduced its novel encapsulated retinol VitiSpheres R8, which protects the anti-aging potency of retinol, allowing for safe infusion of higher concentrations in creams and serums.

In November, the SCCS shared its revised opinion on retinol retinyl acetate and retinyl palmitate – used in cosmetics and supplements to support skin health, cell growth and immunity.

Retinol is also being explored for its synergies with rising star cannabidiol (CBD), a cannabis-derived compound. Skincare company, Aforé has published a research paper showcasing the methods and results of topically applying retinol and CBD.

Edited by Benjamin Ferrer

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