In-cosmetics Global: Givaudan unveils Neuroglow to boost melanin production and attain “faster, healthier, better-protected tan”

28 Mar 2024 --- Givaudan Active Beauty launches Neuroglow, an active ingredient designed to “safely” replicate the positive effects of the sun and attain the sought-after glow.

The sun is recognized for its beneficial impact on mood and energy due to vitamin D production, contributing to a tanner skin tone. However, with contemporary lifestyles leading to more time spent indoors, Givaudan sees Neuroglow “as a response to a growing demand for the positive effects associated with sunlight exposure.” 

Neuroglow is said to mimic the properties of sunlight, stimulating the production of melanin (+126%) and promoting the skin’s release of molecules such as beta-endorphin (+43%), vitamin D (+345%) and oxytocin (+229%). 

According to the company, the new ingredient prepares the skin for sun exposure by boosting melanin production, allowing for a “faster, healthier, more natural and better-protected tan.” The ingredient will be showcased at In-cosmetics Global 2024 next month.

Healthy sun exposure
Neuroglow is crafted using the  Green Fractionation process from Persicaria tinctoria and sourced from Provence, France. 

Bénédicte Sennelier-Portet, R&D Green Fractionation manager, says: “Our scientists in R&D Green Fractionation have identified and optimized a plant-derived active ingredient offering an unprecedented solution to mimic all the positive effects of sunlight.”

Givaudan research indicates that 80% of US Gen Z consumers seek cosmetics that positively influence their mood. It also says Neuroglow improves “general well-being” and energy levels while preventing potential inflammatory damage caused by the sun. 

Givaudan Active Beauty boosts melanin with its new cosmetics ingredient.The results from its first clinical trial demonstrated a phototype shift in 76% of participants in seven days, moving from phototype II to phototype III. Of these, 40% shifted to a darker phototype IV, compared to 0% in the placebo group. 

In a second clinical trial involving volunteers experiencing seasonal mood changes due to lack of sunlight, Neuroglow reduced tiredness, increased feelings of affection and improved “winter blues,” with over 80% of volunteers reporting a positive score.

“Of 100% natural origin and Cosmos compliant, Neuroglow prepares the skin for sun exposure, promotes a healthier tanning process and even protects the skin from the potential side effects of overexposure. [The ingredient creates] a healthy glow and enhanced well-being all year round, even when combined with SPF, highlighting the benefits of the sun,” explains Sennelier-Portet. 

Recent releases
Givaudan recently targeted inclusivity and luminosity with its latest launch, Illuminyl 388. The fragrance, flavors and actives manufacturer said the ingredient is a highly potent skin-brightening prebiotic that delivers a range of benefits for all skin tones. The biotech-enhanced molecule was designed through “cell-free glycosylation” to benefit diverse skin types from Africa and Asia to India and Europe.

This month, it also introduced Nympheal, a molecule for creating white floral fragrances. The product resulted from expertise in muguet or lily of the valley aldehydes that give perfumes a fresh, powdery or soapy quality.

Additionally, the company spoke to Personal Care Insights and revealed to us that it is exploring and using circular approaches such as:

• Upcycling raw materials when possible and upcycling raw materials from qualified sourcing to valorize the existing flow.
• Water recycling with reverse osmosis.
• Saving energy with heat insulation.
• Retrocontrol on aeration during fermentation to feed it only when needed. Track of the air leak.
• Sterilization by filtration instead of by heat to limit the usage of gas and waste vegetable residues reused in methanization to produce biogas.

By Sabine Waldeck